There are more variables than one can comprehend when taking a photo. I just wanted to give a starting point to a learner which by no means is absolute. I should have made that point clear in my article itself.

Any photographer will slowly evolve when the photo taken by the person is not up to his/her dream photo. It’s imperative that if a photo does not satisfy the photographer, he/she should analyze, study and search for better ways to eliminate the errors (like shake and out-of-focus).

And then comes your “in-sight” analysis which is a wonderful addition to my basic article.

Thank You!

-Sudipta.
Pleasure Photography
http://www.pleasurephotography.com
The Photographer’s Paradise

f/22 is no panacea: depending on your camera format and lens it could be too narrow (4/3rds and similar), where you’d expect to lose more in diffraction than you gain in DoF; in large-format (5×4 or 8×10) it’s more equivalent to f/45 or more to get the same DoF.

The rule for shutter-speed at which hand-holding becomes unreliable is not just “1/60th”, it depends on the 35mm-equivalent focal-length of the lens – 1/60th for a 50mm lens on 35mm or a 35mm lens on APS-C or a 30mm zoom on 4/3rds and maybe 1/500th to hand-hold a 300mm telephoto reliably. Because it’s mirror-slap that causes the shake, non-mirror designs (eg rangefinders) can typically get away with slower shutter-speeds hand-holding reliably. Up in medium-format, the thing’s weight becomes a factor as well: I can often get away with hand-holding a hasselblad at 1/15th second exposures in order to get the aperture I need for a given DoF.

There’s also nothing magical about ISO 100; you mean “the lowest ISO your camera supports in order to minimize sensor-noise”. That much is obvious, but on Canon Powershots it’s ISO80 and some cameras go down to ISO50. *Films* go down to ISO25 or less.