Photography Tips on Shooting in Parks – The Vantage Points

Parks are one of the major places where a photographer can find many interesting subjects and challenges in Photography. But many of us shoot in parks in the same way we shoot in a birthday party. Here’s some of my personal tips that I have learnt from internet and experience that will dramatically improve the results of your park photos.

I. Searching for a subject

Parks are green, well most them are. So the first thing to search for is a non-green contrasting color object. Something that stands out. It can be someone walking their dog, or a tree/bush with unusual color or even an empty chair or structure in the park.

See the example photo: http://www.pleasurephotography.com/photos/index.php?showimage=24

If you don’t find anything different than the usual green, try to find a shape that gives you a sense of vastness. To capture such a scene, you will need a wide angle lens (18-24mm) and use the wider side of it as much as you can.

See the example photo: http://www.pleasurephotography.com/photos/index.php?showimage=51

Another creative way will be to get a different angle of the same object. Try lying down beneath the trees and take a shot straight up. Or lower your camera at your ankle level to capture the leaves that have fallen on the pathways with a background of the whole park. Try vertical where your natural instinct says go horizontal.

If the park has any water body it will open a whole lot of new possibilities which I will discuss in my next article. But for now, let’s skip the optimizations on water reflections and flows.

Shadows of the trees can produce interesting effects. This is one of the reason I shoot ONLY during dawn and dusk. The golden color of the atmosphere creates an awesome effect on the trees and even on many “boring” objects like benches. Most of the photography skills come from looking and searching for patterns, colors and on-spot happenings (e.g. a dog playing with another dog or his owner). This is the hard part. Once you have found the subject, the remaining technical part is easier.

See the example photo: http://www.pleasurephotography.com/photos/index.php?showimage=71

Note: Do not waste your time taking photos of boring trees, grass and paths from your usual angle (the angle your eyes see a scene), rather think and spend your time on searching for a subject. Go to a place where no one normally goes. Do not stop at the bench or overlook. Walk around it. Explore. One position will give you that unusual shot which is different than others. Get the vantage point.

Remember: Color, Shapes, Patterns, Perspective, People, Wildlife.

If a park does not have ANY of the above, go to another park !

II. Check your Camera and optional gadgets

Before starting to shoot the subject, check your camera settings for
1. ISO (nothing other than 100)
2. White balance ( AWB or Cloudy )
3. Metering Mode ( If large part is sky, go for Partial, else Evaluative )
4. Timer ( This is most irritating part with my camera.
It remembers the last timer setting )
5. Focusing mode (One shot)
6. Mode (Aperture Priority)

Optional gadgets include a warm circular polarizer filter. This will bring the colors more vivid and “warm” together with cutting out any direct reflections from the surface. The complete manual and tips on using a polarizer deserves another article.

Tripod is somewhat optional but required in most cases, read on.

II. Setup specially for Park

1. If you are shooting with wider side of your lens (18-24mm), use Aperture as high as F22. This to ensure you have everything in focus. Of course, you can do away with F16 or even F11, but I do not take any chances, F22 is my number.

2. If you are shooting at F22, and its dawn or dusk, you will find it very difficult to get proper exposure at hand-holdable shutter speed (which for me is 1/60 sec). If you see that the shutter speed is as slow as 1/10 or 1/5, you will definitely not be able to take the photo with your camera in your hand without getting a blurred photo due to camera shake. So there’s three ways out of this -

a. Try to lower the F-stop from F22 and see how much you can increase the shutter speed.

b. Try to increase the ISO to a maximum of 200 (not more)

c. Put the camera on a tripod. The BEST option, even if you have a shutter speed of 1/60 sec, I ALWAYS use a tripod. That is the secret of my crisp and tack sharp photos even at low light.

Exception: If you are shooting something in motion (even very slight motion), then you NEED to increase the shutter speed (unless you need the blurry effect purposefully, I don’t, specially for a landscape photo). So you have to choose #a or #b or BOTH.

III. Shoot the Photo (or a hell lot of photos)

Place the subject (if anything distinct, else skip to the next paragraph) anywhere along the imaginary inner rectangle in the viewfinder whose length and breadth is 1/3rd distance inside the outer periphery of the viewfinder. This is called the two-third’s rule. This needs explanation with illustration which I will take up in another article in this series. The bottomline is place the subject vertically at 2/3rd distance from top and horizontally at 1/3rd from left or right.

See the example photo: http://www.pleasurephotography.com/photos/index.php?showimage=66

Now it’s time to experiment. Believe it or not, I take 15-20 photos at different settings (also called “Bracketing”) for a single scene or subject. If the subject is moving, I take photos in continuous shooting mode. This way, there will always be a photo that will give you the level of satisfaction, and also help you learn the impact of changing settings on the result. The common bracketing variables are:

1. Shutter Speeds 1/(x-15), 1/x, 1/(x+15)
2. Apertures F5.6, F11, F22
3. White Balance (Auto, Cloudy, Tungsten – this increases “blue-ness” of the sky)

Try these and you learn more than reading any book or article on Photography. I can give you set of 20 photos and the camera settings for your instant gratification, but that will be doing injustice to you as a learner in Photography.

Everything I told you here will cost you time. Yes, you will need to be willing to spend a sufficient amount of time in the field. If there is any pressing deadline or appointments, you will get distracted and result in inferior quality and quantity of photos necessary for you to master photography. I can show you the path, you have to walk it. Good luck.

About the Author
Sudipta.
Pleasure Photography
www.pleasurephotography.com
The Photographer’s Paradise


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2 Comments »

Comment by Tim
2009-10-12 09:45:38

Beware of quoting absolute numbers.

f/22 is no panacea: depending on your camera format and lens it could be too narrow (4/3rds and similar), where you’d expect to lose more in diffraction than you gain in DoF; in large-format (5×4 or 8×10) it’s more equivalent to f/45 or more to get the same DoF.

The rule for shutter-speed at which hand-holding becomes unreliable is not just “1/60th”, it depends on the 35mm-equivalent focal-length of the lens – 1/60th for a 50mm lens on 35mm or a 35mm lens on APS-C or a 30mm zoom on 4/3rds and maybe 1/500th to hand-hold a 300mm telephoto reliably. Because it’s mirror-slap that causes the shake, non-mirror designs (eg rangefinders) can typically get away with slower shutter-speeds hand-holding reliably. Up in medium-format, the thing’s weight becomes a factor as well: I can often get away with hand-holding a hasselblad at 1/15th second exposures in order to get the aperture I need for a given DoF.

There’s also nothing magical about ISO 100; you mean “the lowest ISO your camera supports in order to minimize sensor-noise”. That much is obvious, but on Canon Powershots it’s ISO80 and some cameras go down to ISO50. *Films* go down to ISO25 or less.

Comment by Sudipta Subscribed to comments via email
2009-10-14 18:11:18

Agreed.

There are more variables than one can comprehend when taking a photo. I just wanted to give a starting point to a learner which by no means is absolute. I should have made that point clear in my article itself.

Any photographer will slowly evolve when the photo taken by the person is not up to his/her dream photo. It’s imperative that if a photo does not satisfy the photographer, he/she should analyze, study and search for better ways to eliminate the errors (like shake and out-of-focus).

And then comes your “in-sight” analysis which is a wonderful addition to my basic article.

Thank You!

-Sudipta.
Pleasure Photography
http://www.pleasurephotography.com
The Photographer’s Paradise

 
 

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